KAZIMIERZ, KRAKOW, POLAND

2/6/26: Mleczarnia gardens. 23c.

One pint in scrambling for a cheap notebook 'coz its about time to jot down info on the ins and outs that make this place one of my favourite neighbourhoods.

GARSTON, LIVERPOOL,UK

14/8/26: Home. 19c.

Deciding to take this writing stuff a wee bit more seriously after seeing it was Polish week at Lidl.

My love affair for Poland is far from a secret to the people around me. From a two night snowy solo quickie in Wroclaw to downing bevvies in the Sczezin sun with a tramp who looked like Santa, my musings on this blog could focus on this nation state alone. My love for all things Poland went from flirtatious to complete adoration after deciding to work remotely from a threadbare flat in the neighbourhood I write to you about today as I waited out the second British covid lock down. I was eating out to help out too, but in the shadows of buildings peppered with arl' WW2 bullets and at half the half cost.

The Kazmierz is a quirky corner of Krakow filled with bars, galleries, historic buildings and all round vibes. The Kaz can be whatever you want to be - one evening you could be browsing an indie designers collection after visiting synogogues and churches, and the next you’ll be sharing a joint with a 5”1 ft Chilean man over the sounds of the Misfits in a basement bar that would make a british health inspector lay awake at night. Both are options, and both are just as spiritually awakening (alledgedly).

I've done the Kaz in many ways: solo, with a massive gang of friends, alongside family, with my fiancé... you get the picture, I love it there. One thing has been consistent each time - the food, and oh my days the bars. Don't get me wrong, I fuck with the rest of Krakow, but the Kazimierz will always have a bit of my heart. Every time I leave, I come back fat, hungover, inspired and with a craving to get back to that 45 square hectares of absolute delight which is just a ten minute mooch from Krakow's main square. If you too would like to feel this way then worry not my sweet przyjaciel, I made some notes for you specifically…

SCRAN

Burger Bar

Look, i’m a very fun, whimsical woman - but there’s one thing that I don’t fuck about with: garlic mayo. I insist that I have done the leg work, and well, this gaff has the third best one on the planet to date. Yes, the burgers are fantastic, and yes I will stumble past this temple of sauciness for a handful of chips when i’m bar hopping - but for the good of all that is garlicky and holy, get your bad self down here to order onion rings and a pot or seven of their gorgeously glowing garlic mayonaisse. I had to write this paragragh twice because I drooled all over my keyboard and it legitmately became a problem. Fuck me, what a saucy biatch. Check them out here.

I have been asked by both friend and foe alike for what else has made the ultimate garlic mayonaisse chart that I consider a life long craft and forever is changing. Sleep well knowing that I will be sharing more pungeant goodness with you here.

Plac Nowy

The new square as the English would call it, belter scran city as I would call it. Rock up to this place at any time of the day, but when its dark the vibes truly do light this place up. Plac Nowy is any street food lover’s wet dream, and you get anything you could thing of here. If the things you are thinking are consist of meat, bread, meat on bread or bread with meat. Yes, kebabs, shawarma or a comically large pork sandwich may seem like a shout, my go to is the humble Zapiekanka.

Ah the Zapiekanka. The best variation of meat and bread Europe has to offer. These bad boys have been knockin’ about Poland since the 70’s and in my brain at least once a week since 2012. The concept is simple: an open faced cheese toasie on a massive baguette sold in either full or in halves - it’s up to you tart up your own zapiekanka with different toppings. Everytime I touch down in the Kaz my cab will drop me off at Plac Nowy and I go with the holy trinity: crispy onions, bacon and (shockingly) garlic mayo. Every zapiekanka stall is different, and there are no shortage of them on the square. Let me know your dream toppings and i’ll get your zapiekanka on my list!

Pizzatopia

Sick of bread and meat? No worries, go here for meat and bread. Looking directly over Plac Nowy you will find one of Pizzatopia’s Krakovian locations. As I write to you I realise this: turns out I just really dig a customisable dish, and this place does it effortlessley. Think subways but for pizzas… pick your dough, pick your toppings, you get what I mean. . Such a simple concept, and the chewiest lovliest pizza dough in Krakow.

(Credit: Pizzatopia)

Bagel Mama

Absolutely delightful haunt of mine that has just the combintation cure for your inevitable Kazimierz hangover: freshly squeezed orange juice, quiet music, good decor and the bagel of your dreams. Gorgeous selection of bagels, but a poppy seed bagel with bacon is always a shout. Save this address in ye phone and thank me later.

BEVS

Beers are abundant and delicious round these ways, so don’t be worrying about that; but have you even been drinking around the Kaz without getting on the tatankas? Żubrówka bison grass vodka + apple juice + lil bit of cinammon = a state of apple based euphoria that cannot be replaced with a simple rum and coke. It’s liquid apple pie that will get you dancing and making best mates with ol’ Mr Koalski in the smoking area. Not all tatankas are created equal, and I’ve got to say, this next place does it the best…

Ulica Krokodyli

No one does a tatanka better! Cloudy apple juice? Check. Slice of apple? You better beleive it. A FRESH CINNAMON stick? Yep yep yep. Lovely bartenders who see legal pouring requirements as nothing but a mere suggestiom? Fuck yeh.

Delicious drink aside, the interior of this place is just as delectable. Sitting off in here will make you feel like you’re in Inglorious Basterds, but like, in a really good way. If you’re lucky enough to visit in the summer, their outside area is absolutely charming.

Alchemia

The bar that made me fall in love with bars. An absolute Kazimierz insitution that must not be missed. Moody decor and pints that flow all night with gigs and events on a rolling basis. The Candles are always lit and the floor is as wonky as you’ll feel after an evening here. If you’re lucky, the basement will be open - get yourself down there with a pack of Malboro reds and a horor book and see how long you last (I did two chapters of Dracula and bailed).

Come nightfall, Alchemia is a big light free zone that will let you smoke in the basement, no notes.

Propaganda

Absolute dive. Would not have it any other way. If you’re into old school punk, doing shots with strangers and being ok with hovering over a toilet seat to have a wee - boy, do I have a place for you. Punk never died, especially here. By the time you get here the tatankas here will be sound, don’t concentrate on the concentrated apple juice, you’re here for the vibes.

Put your Doc Martens on and this address in your phone and remember who you are.

Mleczarnia

Delightful outdoor space half a cigarette’s stumble from Plac Nowy. Due to it’s location, this is one of my all time favourite spots for people watching: to the side of Mleczarnia lies the Schindler’s List Passage (Pasaż Schindlera), a courtyard used in Speilberg’s Schindler’s List to show the liqudation of the Jewish Ghetto. Tourists will come and go all day, good vibes in the garden will stay. I decided to finally start this blog in this place, and they also have lovely cakes.

VIBES

Zabka Haul

Zabka stores are all over Poland, and I think all in all i’ve spent more time in them than I have in Polish museums collectively. Poland’s awnser to a 7/11 or a newsagents. There are too many to count in the Kaz, and I await pictures of your Zabka hauls when you get over there.

Trinket Hunting

If you’re looking for lifestyle stores, vintage clothes, cute handmade goods, cute art and souvenirs that will support local artisans, look no further. Grab yourself a coffee, fawn over street art and get to strollin’ down Józefa Street. In a world that seems to have more malls than sense, this street sparks something nice in me, and makes me want to create something nice too, so here we are I guess.

I know what you're thinking, "Global Scouser, I can't just fuck off to Krakow?!" Actually, I'd never think that, but I get where you're coming from (I think, a bit). Next time I'm gonna tell you have a belter day in Liverpool inspired by my top pics, 'coz lads, if you plan it right, we've got the Kaz at home. In the mean time, you can watch my instagram stories from my last trip to Kazimierz ‍here.

I'm off now, just got to check some flight prices. Bye for now lids.

x

Kazimierz